Magic is a central force in ni-Vanuatu lives. So in 1936, when John Frum came from the Sea and announced himself to some kava drinkers (in the villages on Tanna Island), they could see that he was the brother of the god of Mt Tukosmera. He told the men that if the Europeans left Tanna, there would be an abundance of wealth. They spread the word around. It was the beginning of a neopagan uprising, with followers doing things the missionaries had banned, such as traditional dancing (but not cannibalism, fortunately)
When US troops arrived in WWII a few years later, many villagers went to the big islands to work for them. There they met African American solders, who were colourful, with theatrical uniforms, decorations, badges, belts and hats. The African Americans had huge quantities of transport equipment, radios, Coca-Cola and cigarettes. But most of all, they were generous and friendly, treating the ni-Vanuatu as equals. Here was the wealth and the way of life the ni-Van had been told about. John Frum was connected to America they decided.
Some supporters made radio aerials out of tin cans and wire to contact John Frum. Others built an airfield in the bush and constructed wooden aircraft to entice his cargo planes to land. Others still erected wharves where his ships could berth. Small red crosses are placed all over Tanna island and remain a feature in John Frum villages, where they are raised daily to this god of their collective imagination.
Kitchen hut for cooking
A snack of coconut and banana to go with our kava
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